Keshi Yena

Keshi yena is the dish Arubans point to first when you ask what to eat. The name means 'stuffed cheese' in Papiamento, and that is exactly what it is: a shell of melted Dutch cheese, usually Gouda or Edam, wrapped around a generously spiced filling of stewed chicken. The filling is where the island's history lands on the fork. Sweet raisins and prunes meet salty olives and capers, with onion, tomato, sweet pepper, and a little hot pepper rounding it out, so each bite swings between savoury, sweet, and tangy.

The dish was born of thrift. Dutch traders brought wheels of Gouda and Edam to the island, and the hollowed-out rinds and offcuts left behind were filled with seasoned meat and baked, turning a leftover into a centrepiece. That fusion of Dutch cheese and Caribbean seasoning is the essence of Aruban home cooking, and keshi yena remains its proudest expression.

How it is served

Keshi yena is typically baked in a round mould so the cheese sets into a golden dome, then turned out and sliced like a savoury cake. It is rich, so it usually arrives with funchi or rice and a simple salad to balance it. Some kitchens make a version with stewed beef, but spiced chicken is the classic.

• Look for it at local restaurants in Oranjestad and the art town of San Nicolas rather than at international hotel buffets, where the seasoning is often toned down.
• It appears at family Sunday lunches and holiday tables, so festive periods are a good time to find the most authentic versions.

If you only try one Aruban dish, make it this one. Order it with funchi on the side and let the sweet-and-savoury filling carry the meal.